The grape varieties (7) school: malbec

Malbec, cot, auxerrois (not to be confused with the Alsacian white of the same name), Burgundy black of Pressac black, sweet nigger, tinturin, black foot, grifforin and I spent, the synonymy for this grape variety is also important that the color of the grape in question is… black. According to the famous ampé Pierre Galet – without which we would be still to take the panties worn by Adam at the dawn of sin for the grape variety Jacquez spreadsheet while it is simply a fig leaf-, malbec was grown in more than 30 departments in France before be partially decimated by terrible frosts of 1956. Its origin would be the Quercy, in the Lot, until he spawns in the Loire and in the Midi, without forgetting the Italy southern and Northern, Chile, California, Southern Africa, but especially the Argentina, where it has been downgraded, for a decade now, Chilean neighbour in terms of consumption. Remember only to the megasucces House Zuccardi and its cuvée Fuzion.

The malbec is a species of merlot who would have preferred to wear the jeans faded not signed pants Moores “good cut, good price, good reputation” so dear to the chronicler Michel Bélair. A species of Jean Leloup, acidity and less, confusion and more so it may seem cryptic hiding behind a screen of much black smoke. In short, the character is coloured, less expressive aromatic and a cabernet sauvignon or less delicate than a pinot noir, quite rich in tannins, rather oval that completely spherical, and willingly agrees to attend merlots, bonardas, tannats and other Cabernet to properly adjust the fold of his pants. Brief, fit braces and teeth clean (for the form), I went for you this week in the assault on black wines 20, as like to name them the Cadurciens. This is not nothing.

Closed the 2010 Coutale Cahors, France (-857177 $14.30). The term “thirst cahors” will appear paradoxical but is adapted with this colorful, dashing and Philippe Bernède tasty red. A notch above the 2009 for his alertness. (5) ** 1/2

Pigmentum Malbec 2010, G. Vigouroux, Cahors, France (-10754412 $14.40). This beautiful cahors sold at a small price has on the skin pigment and fruity full the godillots. Balance, body, fresh, very classic. (5) ***

Alamos Selección 2011 Malbec, Catena, Argentina (16 $-467951). The spicy registry of leather with a touch of salt slice quickly for this full-bodied, rich, excellent holding red. (5) *** ©

Château Lamartine 2009, Cahors, France (-11343404 $16.50). Not too broad or deep, that of malbec with the grain, a point of firmness, a net final. (5) ** 1/2

Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Clásico 2011, Argentina (-10692477 $16.60). A malbec in anger which tends to surdramatiser while it is fiendishly fun by its fruity deep, its rich SAP, his athletic body. (5) ** 1/2

Tarani Reserve 2009, Cahors, France (16.65 $-11676495). The printing of drinking a cahors of the 1980s, however, flawless with this fruity crude crept in too tight jeans. Correct. (5) **

Pascual Toso Malbec 2010, limited edition, Argentina (-11676111 $17.30). A solid red multilayer, fresh and well concentrated, powerful and a SAP to trigger this reflex of never hungry carnivore in you. (5) *** ©

Castle of Aglan 2006 highs, Cahors, France (17,40 $-734244). It is the cahors that lock you in a spree in a bistro Vire-sur-Lot and moved remembrance is inversely proportional to the actual quality of the wine. A red simple, medium body, ready to drink. (5) ** 1/2

Reserva Del end Del Mundo 2010, Patagonia, Argentina (18,15 $-11156810). A Corsican red which is not the language in his pocket but the sandwich instead blithely at the level of the fruity and tannin. A furry beast, certainly not to pen! (5) *** ©

The Combal 2007, Cahors, France (-10675001 $18.35). The tasted samples were not top. Reserved judgment.

Caliterra Tributo 2009, Single Vineyard, Chile (-11675652 $19.45). The impression of stalling a glass of liqueur of cassis de île ‘ Orléans! One-dimensional without being monotonous, dry, intense and flavourful, powerful, tannic, beautiful length. (5) ** 1/2

Castle Gaudou Renaissance 2009, Cahors (20.70 $-10272093). Fruity juvenile very pure, very charming, with this fruity spherical property picked up, this shapely worthy of a leg of Olympic Diver to rest. De-Li-heaven! (5) ***

Château Lamartine special cuvée 2009, Cahors, France (20.85 $-862904). I have never been disappointed by this authentic red, always beautifully balanced, revealing this sobriety related to Earth origins with panache. A bottle which shake some more expensive bordeaux. (5 +) ** 1/2

Zuccardi, Malbec 2010, Q, Argentina (20,90 $-11218460). No doubt, we are at the level of the best. The class feels and tastes are. There is even a local profile that emerges, paving the way for a harmonious, fruity of high purity. Hat, Mister Zuccardi! (5 +) ** 1/2

2010 Catena, Malbec High Mountain Vines, Argentina (-478727 $21.75). First is the great freshness combined with the quality of tannins, all raised with care, which surprised here. Body, force, full, length. The House knows there. (5 +) ** 1/2

Castle the Cedar 2008, Cahors, France (-972463 $22.35). I like this wine has always been. A quiet strength sucking its SAP from the basement to power a bright, glaring truth fruity. Color, body, force, structure, length and happiness of true drink. (5 +) ** 1/2

Clos Triguedina 2007, Cahors, France (23,30 $-746412). With Verhaeghe at the castle of cedar, Jean-Luc Baldès is strong, very strong, Triguedina. The material is beautiful, the material is just, the spirit of the cahors is preserved, with the point of severity, especially of authenticity. A must! (5 +) ** 1/2

Château de Haute-Serre 2007, G. Vigouroux, Cahors, France (23,80 $-947184): A classic vinified at the former coming slowly to maturity. It is detailed, rich, well palpable, living, balanced. (5) *** ©

Château de Mercuès 2008, Cahors, g. Vigouroux, France (-972471 $24.80). This is the man, virile, authoritarian but fair, sure of its power of attraction. High-level Cahors, multidimensional, Corsican, an elegance that leaves any hardiness to the locker room, because he knows the places Lord. Race, long guard. (10 +) **** ©

Next week: well Yes… the pinot noir!

***

Jean Aubry is the author of the Guide Aubry 2013 – the 100 best wines under $25.

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